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How to sew a bra – Step 7.4: Sewing cups – Attaching all cup layers

how to sew a bra
serging foam cups

Before any other step further, here’s what I like to do – but this is totally optional or you can do it later after you’ve attached all cup layers. I do this to reduce the thickness of the foam.

maya foam cup

Go around the foam cup with the serger.

maya foam bra cups

Both cups, of course.

sewing maya bra cups

Arrange pieces. Right side is facing you – both the foam and lace. Careful to match left lace cup under the left foam and right lace cup under the right foam.

maya bra cup construction

Take the foam for one cup and move it above the lace. Do not turn the cup.

maya bra cup construction

Move the second foam cup.

foam and lace bra cup construction

Hold all the layers together, pick up one cup and turn it. Now the lace covers the inside of the cup.

The red line shows where you should stitch.

sewing a bra cup

You should stitch very close to the edge, like 2-5 mm.

sewing maya bra cup

Here is my cup.

sewing lace to foam

And the detail with the stitch.

Sew the second cup.

foam and lace bra cup

Next step is to bring the lace layer up to front.

maya foam and lace cup

Here’s the front side of the cup.

foam bra cup

Here’s the inside of the cup.

maya foam lace bra

Next step is to pin lace to foam. Seams from the lace must match seams from the foam.

foam and lace bra cup construction

And stitch close to the edge (4-8 mm).

sewing foam and lace bra cup

This is the view on the inside.

Sew the second cup.

If you haven’t serged around the cup, you may do it now – but only on the sides that are not finished. At this stage the cup is almost ready!

This article is part of a series of articles about How to sew a bra.

Previous step: Step 7.3

Sewing cups
Sewing cup top layer

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Next step: Step 7.5

Sewing cups
Finishing the cup

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