Prepare your sewing machine. I’ve told you that I use this special foot:
It has a guide right in the middle – red arrow is pointing at. It will guide me when sewing pieces. You can use any other foot that provides a guide in the middle. Also it is important that the foot can be used with zig-zag stitch.
Setting zig-zag step width and length.
For the length choose a step no bigger than 2 mm – I set it to 1.8 mm, for the step width set the value no less than 4 mm – I set it to 5 mm.
These are the first pieces you have to join:
Remember the pattern pieces for these. There are 2 notches – encircled with red. When joining pieces, these notches must come together. I’m sorry guys, in my rush, I forgot to trace on my foam pieces. This is why you won’t see the notches on my foam pieces. But, please, don’t make the same mistake. Notches are a great help when sewing!
Align the pieces. It does not matter on which side you’re stitching, as long as there are notches marked and you can see them.
Start sewing: the foot guide tells you where the pieces come together. Do not flap one piece over the other.
This is a curved seam and it is a bit hard at first to stitch this kind of seams. But here is a trick: push gently the pieces to each other while stitching; push close to the foot on the portion that will be sewn right away.
As you go further, the cup curves. Let it curve, it will be easier for you to handle the foam. Stitch till the end.
To understand why we use zig-zag, here is a detail:
You know that in zig-zag the needle travels from left to right, from right to left and so on. The idea is that when on left the needle must catch the foam piece on the left, when on right the needle must catch the foam piece from the right side. This way, the foam pieces are joined together.
Now stitch the pieces for the second cup.
This is the lower part of a cup. And we are not done yet. What I suggest you do – for a clean finish and a professional look – is prepare some bands:
Non-stretch or not very stretchy and having a width from 5 to 10 mm. Mine here are 7 mm. You can use cotton, satin straps – anything that is fine to touch the skin. Do not use some fancy straps that have a rough surface!
What we will be doing is cover the zig-zag seams. Important: the strap is applied on the inside part of the cup – where the lining is. On this example the strap will cover both the foam and the lining.
Again I’m using this special foot, but with a straight stitch and (important) needle position to the left:
The red marks show where the stitch must lay. Stitch carefully. It may seem hard at first, but with a little exercise, in time you’ll get it right.
When done, you have to turn and stitch on the other side:
See here the previous stitch (red arrow). The red line shows where the second stitch must pass:
Here is it done for one cup:
Do the same for the second cup:
Straps may be to long. Cut them, but not exactly at the edge, rather leave some addition of 5 mm:
We are done with the lower part for the cups. Moving to the next step – attaching the cup top piece. Remember there is a notch as well:
This one must be aligned to the joined seam from the lower part of the cup.
Again, I’m using the special foot with zigzag stitch. For perfect match I align the notch and start stitching from the notch to the end of the cup.
It is easier for first tries to stitch in halves. Now, turn the cup and stitch the other half.
Here is a cup. The notch is aligned with the lower seam.
Finish the second cup.
This stitch must be covered too:
Here it is:
Here’s the notch:
You can see the end of the previous band:
What you have to do is cut careful the visible end. For this, bend the cup; it will be easier to catch just the end and cut.
And we are done joining the foam pieces.
The inside of the cup is finished with yellow straps. The top will be covered with lace. But before that, we have to sew the lace layer 🙂
This article is part of a series of articles about How to sew a bra.
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