This article is one of my research conclusion. But I want to share the information with you since bra size is a very vivid subject nowadays.
This article came to my mind while I was investigating different methods for drafting an under-wire bra pattern. What first struck me right between the eyes was, which measuring method is the right one? They all take different measurements. However, in this post I will only speak about choosing the bra size, not choosing the bra drafting method. But it is a good start for those who plan to draft a bra pattern themselves. I for one, would have been very lucky to have found an article like this.
If you’re cool with all above, let’s get into the subject.
Every women has struggled at some point to find her bra size. Some shops say to measure this and that, extract and based on that result determine the bra size. Yeah! Some shops say to measure there and there and match the results in some tables. But what measuring method is the right one?
Let me tell you: there is none! Why: because bra manufacturers do not all sew bras using a unique standard. And if they did, every woman’s shape is different. So how can one woman find and buy a bra that fits?
Before we begin to look at methods, let me state that a bra size consists of two measurements: the band size and the cup size. BOTH these are the bra size. The band size is a number, the cup size is a letter (A, B, C… etc). Sizing methods in every country is different. And in one country, every manufacturer can or cannot obey the country sizing system.This is also a problem when shopping for a bra.
I will not refer to a specific sizing system, nor to concrete values. The interest here is the measuring mechanism. Positive facts for a method are marked with ‘+’, negative with ‘-‘.
Method 1
It’s the most popular method today. Measure the bust size. Measure the ribcage just under the breasts. Extract the ribcage from bust. Depending on the size method approved by the manufacturer, you get into one category.
Method 2
I have heard some manufacturers use the bust measurement and the above bust. Then extract from the bust girth, the chest (above bust) and based on the difference include you in one bra size.
And a last point: this method is to determine the cup size when drawing the basic bodice. The difference between those 2 measurements, gives you how big the bust dart is. But, I would very much like to write a separate article about this.
Method 3
There is no measuring tape involved. Despite that, I included it here, since we are searching for a method to determine the bra size. What we measure in this method is different bras with various sizes. Yes, some shops today, offer you the possibility to try on the bras before buying. So, you try on different bras till you find one that fits.
Method 4
This one takes very specific measurements! Russians use this for their method of pattern drafting. Some other drafting methods use this. Lets look at the measurements first.
Don’t get cheated with these very specific measurements! I was! Here is why:
When you get to take measurements from a body with saggy breasts, all the numbers turn your world upside down. The measurements show the actual shape. But we want a bra that lifts breasts naturally and give a natural look and shape. How do we get that bra size?
Method 5
This one was developed by me and at this moment I think to be the most accurate possible. But this can change in time, if somehow I find flaws. You have to take two measurements.
The wire must encircle the breast tissue. The wire must not lay on the breast or be larger than the breast circumference. Just at the root of your boob. Where to get the wire? Old bras. When you find the best wire, keep it! When shopping, take the wire with you. Look for bras with your band size only. Now, apply the wire on the bra channel. When you found one with matching band and wire – that’s the one!
