Do you remember how I have teased you with some hints about my bra pattern? Here is the first sample – a finished bra. If you want to see the finished bra only, go to the end of the post. Because I’ll be sharing lots of pictures and comments about making this champagne piece of lingerie.
My bra pattern is designed for foam or simple cups and under-wires. So, I picked what fabrics I could get my hand on – foam included. The thing with a bra is that you can not tell if it fits you until it is completely finished. In any case, you can’t try the band when the bra is partially assembled. But you can test the cups.
These were the first I made and tried. They turned a little bit pointy. Actually, too pointy for my taste. When covering the cup with the top layer – satin – you could easily tell something is not right:
When covered with stretch lace, the pointy shape is not so visible. It got me into thinking and I left the cups for a couple of days. Then decided, if I want a great bra, the cup pattern has to be altered. How many of you want pointy bras? I for one, want a beautiful full round shape for a cup. So, I altered the cup pattern only. A new foam cups were the fastest way to try the new cup pattern. They were pretty good. I went further and covered the cups with satin.
Here are several pictures with the in-progress bra starting with some test cups comparison. Some pictures with cup layers – lining is cotton knit, preparing the band and attaching cups to the band, sewing elastics, and getting ready for underwire channeling.
The only thing left is to treat the end of the under-wires and close the channels.
Here’s a picture of the cup seams, for you to get an idea of how the pattern lines are:
And the bra is finished and ready for the wearing test:
My thoughts? Ok, the band fits amazingly well! And I mean the wire too. My measurements and the drawing method really paid off my effort. The cup? Still a bit pointy. Here are some pictures with the bra under one blouse so that you can get an idea:
In closing, I do have to alter the cup more – but I am already working on that. Apart from that, there is nothing I would change in the pattern. However, I learned something – this bra must be made from stretchy fabrics. The top layer made of non-stretch satin is not working very well. But that’s not the pattern drafting fault. This bra is completely wearable – the bridge stays flat against the chest, the cup around the breast root is perfect. I’ll be wearing it for a couple of days and judge the comfort before making a second sample.
So, what do you think? Would you sew this kind of bra? All comments are welcome, even criticism. After all, this is how I learn to do better!