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How to sew a bra – Step 7.4: Sewing cups – Attaching all cup layers

Reduce foam thickness

Before any other step further, here’s what I like to do – but this is totally optional or you can do it later after you’ve attached all cup layers. I do this to reduce the thickness of the foam.

Go around the foam cup with the serger.

Both cups, of course.

Join all cup layers

Arrange pieces. The right side is facing you – both the foam and lace. Careful to match the left lace cup under the left foam and the right lace cup under the right foam.

Take the foam for one cup and move it above the lace. Do not turn the cup.

Move the second foam cup.

Hold all the layers together, pick one cup up and turn it. Now the lace covers the inside of the cup. The dashed line shows where you should stitch.

You should stitch very close to the edge, like 2-5 mm.

Here is my cup.

And the detail with the stitch. Sew the second cup.

The next step is to bring the lace layer up to the front.

Here’s the front side of the cup.

Here’s the wrong of the cup.

Prepare the cups for the next steps

The next step is to pin the lace to foam. Seams from the lace must match seams from the foam.

And stitch close to the edge (4-8 mm).

This is the view on the wrong side. Sew the second cup.

If you haven’t serged around the cup, you may do it now – but only on the sides that are not finished. At this stage, the cup is almost ready!

This article is part of a series of articles about How to sew a bra.

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