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How to sew a bra – Step 7.3: Sewing cups – Sewing cup top layer

how to sew a bra
maya bra lace cup

Prepare your cup pieces that were cut from lace.

maya bra lower cup

First to sew are the lower parts. On your pieces there will be notches. When joining pieces together those notches must match.

bra lower cup

Remove pins and paper, and unfold pieces.

sewing maya bra cup

Prepare to sew one cup.

sewing maya lace cup

You have to sew as shown here.

sewing bra cup

If you cut my pattern as is, there is 8 mm seam allowance. Arrange the needle position to be 8 mm from the edge. If you’re using your amount for seam allowance, move the needle according to your value.

bra lace cups

Sew the lower part for both cups.

lower bra cup construction

This is not it. You can gently press open the seam, but I also recommend you make two stitches.

It will hold the seam allowance in place and the seam will lie flat.

lower bra cup

Here they are.

lower cup bra seam

A closer look.

trimming seam allowance

There is excess fabric.

trimming seam allowance

We have to carefully cut it, just 1-2 mm away from the stitch.

lower bra cup

This is how it should look.

bra cup notches

Moving on to joining lower cup with upper cup. My upper piece has a notch too.

This one has to match the seam from the lower cup.

maya bra cup from lace

Remove paper piece from the lower cup and unfold lace pieces.

maya bra cup notches

For notch placement I use a pin.

matching bra cup notch

Prepare upper and lower cup.

pin bra cup

With the notch matching the stitch from the lower cup, join cup pieces with pins.

sewing bra cup pieces

Up to your sewing machine.

sewing maya bra cup pieces

And here it is.

sewing lace bra cup

One cup – almost ready. This is the right side.

sewing lace bra cup

On the wrong side.

See how this seam sits where it wants? We have to top-stitch it. But this time we won’t open the seam.

sewing maya lace bra cup

The seam must go in the up direction.

1 – upper cup
2 – lower cup

maya bra cup construction

Here it is on the wrong side of the fabric.

maya bra cup seam

And on the right side.

maya lace bra cups

Sew the second cup.

And you’re almost done. Remember we’ve chopped the seam allowance a bit on the lower part of the cup? Do the same for this seam.

presing bra cups

Also, I like to give the cup a gentle press. Since the cup has curved seams, it’s a bit trickier to press. If you have a special ham, use it. But here’s how I do it. Every pressing table has a round edge.

I put half of the cup on the table, the other half is hanging down.

pressing maya bra cups

This is a delicate fabric. Never press with your iron directly touching the fabric. Use a cotton scrap to cover the lace.

bra cup construction

Cover completely.

pressing bra cup

Now press gently.

Put the other half of the cup on the table, cover with cotton and press. Press the second cup too.

maya bra lace cup

In the end you should have something similar to this.

We are now ready to join cup layers all together!

This article is part of a series of articles about How to sew a bra.

Previous step: Step 7.2

Sewing cups
Sewing foam

View article
Browse all chapter titles
View titles
Next step: Step 7.4

Sewing cups
Attaching all cup layers

View article

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