
Bra underwire types

Have you been looking for bra underwires lately? Did you open an online shop website to discover more types of underwire? Let’s take a look at the differences.
Q: Why do we need to know about bra underwire types when sewing our bras?
A: A bra pattern is designed with one or at most two types of underwires. A well-designed and documented bra pattern must specify which type to use when sewing this particular pattern. If we sew a bra but use a different type of underwire than the one specified in sewing instructions, we have a good chance to end up with a bad-fitting piece of lingerie.
I’ve classified the types of underwires according to the length and shape. Maybe there are more, I decided to stick with the basics. For demonstration purposes, I’m using a EU75B/UK34B/US34B wire. Here’s a draft of a normal underwire shape:
Length classification
- normal – for a day wear bra
- short – plunge style bra, suits low-cut neck
- long – usually for strapless bra or for more support
Normal
on the left
Short
on the right

Normal
on the left
Long
on the right

Shape classification
N-O-rmal
on the left
U-Shape
on the right

I can’t recommend you to use one type or another, it depends on your shape and bra design. For some breast shapes, one particular style is better, while for others it’s not an option. But about this, we’ll talk in another post.
Q: Can you change one type of underwire into another?
A: Well, yeah, but just to shorten the ends.
To conclude: when making a bra, always check the type of wire the bra requires!