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Sewing Hourglass Dress – Sew back and invisible zipper

hourglass dress sew back

Prepare back pieces.

Sew darts using either elastic stitch or zig-zag for knits:

houglass dress sew back
hourglass dress press darts

Press darts in the shown direction.

hourglass dress pin back pieces

Pin back pieces together in center line.

sewing hourglass dress back

Lay zip and note where it ends, a little above the end of the zip.

There is a method I prefer for invisible zip insertion. The next steps will show you the method. If you have another method, please, go ahead a few steps! So, what I do when sewing invisible zip: I sew with usual stitch ( in this case elastic or zig-zag for knits) from the marked zip end to the bottom of the skirt – red interrupted line that you can barely see it is interrupted; but, the key to a successful invisible zip insertion is to stitch where the zip will be, with a straight big-step stitch, that later we will unpick – the red interrupted line.

hourglass dress insert invisible zipper

Now press the seam open.

Lay zip on the pressed seam. Check the teeth of the zip to follow the seam line. Pin and then hand baste the zip to the seam allowance only! Do not hand-baste to the back part.

sewing hourglass dress invisible zipper

Turn the back piece to face the right side of the fabric. Unpick the seam only on the zip part.

hourglass dress sewing invisible zipper

Take off the threads from the unpicked seam. Open zip till the end.

hourglass dress sew invisible zipper

Move zip holder as far down as possible.

hourglass dress sewing back zipper

You should have some space between the holder and the seam end of the back.

At this point you have a hand-basted zip. Move on to sewing your zip on your sewing machine. Use zip foot or special invisible zip foot. In my case, I use a simple zip foot. Sew with a normal straight stitch, not the elastic or zig-zag:

hourglass dress sewing invisible zipper

Now your zipper is hand-basted and machine sewn at the same time:

hourglass dress sew zipper

Serge together seam allowances and zipper.

Now your zipper is in place. Take off the hand-basted thread  and press gently the back seam and the zipper. Press on both sides: on the right side of the fabric and on the wrong side.

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