Maya Bra cup was designed for full round breast tissue. And this applies to the upper part of the cup too. What this means is for some of the sewing ladies the cup is not filled completely. Today we tackle how to cleanly adjust the upper cup.
How do you know if you need this adjustment? That’s really simple. If you put your bra on there’s an excess in the upper part. Your breast does not fill that portion of the cup. Your first instinct would be to take a dart. And you’re right! Except I will show you how to work with 3 darts. Having mastered the 3 darts alteration, you’ll be able to increase or decrease the number of darts you need. Let’s dive into it.
A typical Maya cup has the following pieces: one upper cup piece, two bottom cup pieces.
Choose 3 places where the upper cup will be slashed. One is right in the middle where the notch is.
In the next steps, we will rotate the pieces. Please note the center points for rotations. Also, note how many points there are. Because that is the number of times we will be performing a rotation.
The point we rotate about, stays fixed. While holding your finger on that point, slightly rotate the left piece. Tape the pieces together. Start with the left point and progress to the center one. The last one is the rightmost point.
At this stage, we get a distorted upper piece. As a result, some lines are no longer, lines. Some curves have corners. Something like this:
For the underarm and neckline, trace the new lines through the edge points.
The tricky part is to perfect the curve. The only fixed things here are the two edge points. Therefore you have to draft a smooth curve. In addition, the length of the curve from the top piece has to match the sum of the curves from the two bottom cup pieces.
One note for you here. Depending on how deep is the dart, or how many darts you make, the bottom curve on the upper cup piece may have the look:
The last step would be to trace the new adjusted piece on a new paper sheet. Don’t forget to mark the strap point.
How many darts should I make?
This depends on the amount you need to remove. I would say if your dart is less than 1 cm, you can get away with one dart. If there is more volume you need to get rid of, my advice would be to keep each dart at a max of 1 cm.
With the hope that this helps you, I wish you all happy bra-making!