Maya Bra

maya bra
  • This is a PDF sewing pattern
  • This pattern is FREE to download
  • This is a Lingerie Sewing Pattern for an under-wire bra.
  • Bra is designed for day wear. Straps are not detachable.
  • The bra offers good support and a great level of comfort.
  • You can make different types of cup: simple (top layer: lace, lycra, tricot, stretch satin etc; inside layer – lining: stretch or non-stretch fabric); or with cut and sew foam, covered and lined as you wish.
  • You can adjust the pattern to get different models of bras.
  • Bra can be made with a 2 hook-and-eye closure or a 3 hook-and-eye closure. For other types of hooks, pattern adjustments are necessary.
Basic Info

Languages

Available sizes

See Bra size charts.
Already drafted patterns are instantly available for download.
Listed sizes but with no download link can be requested. They will be provided on demand.

Notes

  • This pattern was tested for several sizes including cup B to J.
  • Before sewing, read carefully all available instruction and information.
  • Use recommended materials for best results.
  • This pattern is available for personal use only. If you are a small business and would like to sew more sizes, contact me for terms of use.
  • Read here why is Maya a free sewing pattern.

Help

Have a question about the pattern – your size is not on my charts, fabric choice, print format, etc? Contact me anytime.

Gallery

Finished garment

This bra is size: EU 95AA / UK 38AA / US 38AA. Cups are made with cut-and-sew foam. Click an image to enter gallery mode.

maya bra

This bra is size: EU 70C / UK 32C / US 32C. Cups are made with cut-and-sew foam. Click an image to enter gallery mode.

minty lace maya bra

Inspirational models

These bras are variations you can make with the Maya bra pattern.

maya bra exhibit 3
Details

Pattern technical details


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Three-piece cup

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The horizontal cup seam is above the apex

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Adjustable straps (non-detachable)

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Full frame

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Back closure (2 or 3 hook-eye can be used)

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Underwire


  • This is a printable PDF pattern. Available print sheet formats are: Letter and A4.
  • Number of pages: 3 (for small sizes) to 10 (for big sizes).
  • PDF file contains pattern pieces only. It does not include sewing instruction.
  • Each size has it’s own PDF file.
  • Required skill level to sew the bra: intermediate to experienced.
  • This pattern has 8 mm seam allowances. Seam allowance may not fully surround some pieces. Check the sewing instruction page for more details about pattern pieces.
  • Bra main features are shown in the drawing above or on the left.

Needed supplies

With Maya Bra Pattern you can create your style. This is achieved by choosing a cup style. You can make a simple cup that must be lined or a cut-and-sew foam cup.

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Supplies for any style:

  • bra elastics – stretch amount: 65% – 110%
  • strap elastics – stretch amount: 40% – 70%
  • main fabric with a stretch amount: 25% – 40%; this is the fabric that covers the bra; it must be eye-appealing; you can use: lace, lycra, knits, stretch satin, etc
  • stretch power-net – for back wings; this is if you want back wings made from a different fabric than the rest of the bra
  • non-stretch power-net; it can also be non-stretch cotton fusible interfacing – used for lining and stabilizing the cradle
  • bra closure; you can choose a 2-hook-eye or a 3-hook-eye closure
  • bra notions: 2 rings + 2 strap adjusting sliders
  • bra embellishment – bow or flower
  • a pair of regular underwires
  • underwire and side boning casings; or nice to skin fabric that can take a round shape when pressed and steamed
  • plastic boning – for side seams
  • usual tools for sewing: sheers, matching thread, sewing machine with at least straight and zig-zag stitch, stretch or ball-point machine needle, etc

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For a simple cup that’s lined you’ll be needing also:

  • main fabric with a stretch amount: 25% – 40%; this is the fabric that covers the cup; it must be eye-appealing; you can use: lace, lycra, knits, stretch satin, etc
  • lining fabric: you can underline with stretch and non-stretch fabric. For stretch fabric, choose one that is at most 40% stretchy

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For a cut-and-sew foam cup that’s also lined, you’ll be needing:

  • main fabric with a stretch amount: 25% – 40%; this is the fabric that covers the foam; it must be eye-appealing; you can use: lace, lycra, knits, stretch satin, etc
  • cut-and-sew foam (neoprene); they come in different sizes; I recommend one that is no more than 3mm thick; also, I recommend to use a stretch foam, even if it has a small amount of stretch
  • lining fabric; you can underline with stretch and non-stretch fabric; for stretch fabric, choose one that is no more than 40% stretchy; for non-stretch I recommend to use only fusible interfacing
  • satin or other ribbon (that’s great against the skin) – to cover foam seams; but this is optional, my tutorial on sewing this bra will be using them; you can use stretch ribbon as well if both the foam and lining is stretchy

Pattern pieces


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maya bra pattern pieces

  1. C1 – Cup upper piece for top layer
  2. C2 – Cup side piece for top layer
  3. C3 – Cup center piece for top layer
  4. F1 – Cup top piece for foam
  5. F2 – Cup side piece for foam
  6. F3 – Cup center piece for foam
  7. B1 – Back wing for a 3 eye-hook band
  8. B2 – Cradle for a 3 eye-hook band
  9. H1 – Back wing for a 2 eye-hook band
  10. H2 – Cradle for a 2 eye-hook band

Download

Select your preferred sizing system to see the download form. In the form choose your band and cup size and insert your email address. Please check your email address for correct spelling. After you click the ‘Download’ button, we will send you an email with the download link. If you do not receive an email, please check your spam folder. Some email providers tag legit mail as spam.

EU Sizing System

UK Sizing System

US Sizing System

Sewing Instructions

I do not have instructions for all steps. I will add them as soon as I can.

  1. Choose the right size
    1. Bra size charts
    2. How to take body measurements for bra pattern size
    3. What size to choose for the bra pattern
    4. What size to choose for the bra pattern if my breast shape is reduced projections
    5. What size to choose for the bra pattern if my breasts are Omega shape
  2. Get the pattern
    1. Download the pattern
    2. How to print sewing patterns
    3. How to assemble pattern pages
  3. A glance on the pattern pieces
  4. Planning bra design and gathering needed materials
  5. Pattern adjustments for your chosen model and your measurements
    1. How to adjust the bridge on my bra pattern
    2. How to adjust cup pattern for reduced projection breast shape
    3. How to adjust cup pattern for Omega shape breasts
  6. Cutting
    1. Before cutting
    2. Cutting foam
    3. Cutting lace
    4. Cutting interface
  7. Before sewing – some needed tools & notions
  8. Sewing cups
    1. Attaching lining to the foam
    2. Sewing foam
    3. Sewing cup top layer
    4. Attaching all cup layers
    5. Finishing the cup
  9. Sewing the band
    1. Preparing the cradle
    2. Joining the cradle with the back wings
  10. Attache cups to the band
    1. Some steps before attaching cups to the band
    2. Sew cups to the band
    3. Useful tricks for cup-band seam
  11. Sew band elastics
    1. Prepare straps
    2. Determine bra elastic’s length
    3. First stitch to attache bra bottom elastic
    4. First stitches to attache bra underarm elastics
    5. Before making the final stitch on elastics
    6. Final elastic stitches
  12. Channels and under-wires
  13. Bra closure and furnishes
  14. Some analysis and conclusions

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