This is a Lingerie Sewing Pattern for an under-wire bra.
Bra is designed for day wear. Straps are not detachable.
The bra offers good support and a great level of comfort.
You can make different types of cup: simple (top layer: lace, lycra, tricot, stretch satin etc; inside layer – lining: stretch or non-stretch fabric); or with cut and sew foam, covered and lined as you wish.
You can adjust the pattern to get different models of bras.
Bra can be made with a 2 hook-and-eye closure or a 3 hook-and-eye closure. For other types of hooks, pattern adjustments are necessary.
See Bra size charts.
Already drafted patterns are instantly available for download.
Listed sizes but with no download link can be requested. They will be provided on demand.
Notes
This pattern was tested for several sizes including cup B to J.
Before sewing, read carefully all available instruction and information.
Use recommended materials for best results.
This pattern is available for personal use only. If you are a small business and would like to sew more sizes, contact me for terms of use.
Have a question about the pattern – your size is not on my charts, fabric choice, print format, etc? Contact me anytime.
Gallery
Finished garment
This bra is size: EU 95AA / UK 38AA / US 38AA. Cups are made with cut-and-sew foam. Click an image to enter gallery mode.
This bra is size: EU 70C / UK 32C / US 32C. Cups are made with cut-and-sew foam. Click an image to enter gallery mode.
Inspirational models
These bras are variations you can make with the Maya bra pattern.
Details
Pattern technical details
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Three-piece cup
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The horizontal cup seam is above the apex
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Adjustable straps (non-detachable)
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Full frame
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Back closure (2 or 3 hook-eye can be used)
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Underwire
This is a printable PDF pattern. Available print sheet formats are: Letter and A4.
Number of pages: 3 (for small sizes) to 10 (for big sizes).
PDF file contains pattern pieces only. It does not include sewing instruction.
Each size has it’s own PDF file.
Required skill level to sew the bra: intermediate to experienced.
This pattern has 8 mm seam allowances. Seam allowance may not fully surround some pieces. Check the sewing instruction page for more details about pattern pieces.
Bra main features are shown in the drawing above or on the left.
Needed supplies
With Maya Bra Pattern you can create your style. This is achieved by choosing a cup style. You can make a simple cup that must be lined or a cut-and-sew foam cup.
main fabric with a stretch amount: 25% – 40%; this is the fabric that covers the bra; it must be eye-appealing; you can use: lace, lycra, knits, stretch satin, etc
stretch power-net – for back wings; this is if you want back wings made from a different fabric than the rest of the bra
non-stretch power-net; it can also be non-stretch cotton fusible interfacing – used for lining and stabilizing the cradle
bra closure; you can choose a 2-hook-eye or a 3-hook-eye closure
bra notions: 2 rings + 2 strap adjusting sliders
bra embellishment – bow or flower
a pair of regular underwires
underwire and side boning casings; or nice to skin fabric that can take a round shape when pressed and steamed
plastic boning – for side seams
usual tools for sewing: sheers, matching thread, sewing machine with at least straight and zig-zag stitch, stretch or ball-point machine needle, etc
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For a simple cup that’s lined you’ll be needing also:
main fabric with a stretch amount: 25% – 40%; this is the fabric that covers the cup; it must be eye-appealing; you can use: lace, lycra, knits, stretch satin, etc
lining fabric: you can underline with stretch and non-stretch fabric. For stretch fabric, choose one that is at most 40% stretchy
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For a cut-and-sew foam cup that’s also lined, you’ll be needing:
main fabric with a stretch amount: 25% – 40%; this is the fabric that covers the foam; it must be eye-appealing; you can use: lace, lycra, knits, stretch satin, etc
cut-and-sew foam (neoprene); they come in different sizes; I recommend one that is no more than 3mm thick; also, I recommend to use a stretch foam, even if it has a small amount of stretch
lining fabric; you can underline with stretch and non-stretch fabric; for stretch fabric, choose one that is no more than 40% stretchy; for non-stretch I recommend to use only fusible interfacing
satin or other ribbon (that’s great against the skin) – to cover foam seams; but this is optional, my tutorial on sewing this bra will be using them; you can use stretch ribbon as well if both the foam and lining is stretchy
Pattern pieces
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C1 – Cup upper piece for top layer
C2 – Cup side piece for top layer
C3 – Cup center piece for top layer
F1 – Cup top piece for foam
F2 – Cup side piece for foam
F3 – Cup center piece for foam
B1 – Back wing for a 3 eye-hook band
B2 – Cradle for a 3 eye-hook band
H1 – Back wing for a 2 eye-hook band
H2 – Cradle for a 2 eye-hook band
Download
Select your preferred sizing system to see the download form. In the form choose your band and cup size and insert your email address. Please check your email address for correct spelling. After you click the ‘Download’ button, we will send you an email with the download link. If you do not receive an email, please check your spam folder. Some email providers tag legit mail as spam.
EU Sizing System
UK Sizing System
US Sizing System
Sewing Instructions
I do not have instructions for all steps. I will add them as soon as I can.
