Archive for category: Sewing

All about sewing: patterns, projects and tutorials. Learn how to sew. Learn to fix. Draft and adjust a sewing pattern. Discover tips and tricks for various sewing operations.

Downloadable tutorial: Afi Exquisite with scalloped edge cups

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Shells or flower petals? You get to choose what you make. And to help you sew it beautifully I prepared a detailed tutorial on sewing scalloped edge cups with my Afi Exquisite pattern.

Afi Exquisite - Scalloped edge cups

First of all, sorry this comes at the end of summer. The bra was ready way back in spring for the start of the swimming season. But with my work, I could not find the strength to put everything together. Thanks to #braugust2021 which motivated me to have it all finished and in time for my sponsoring day.

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Now, onto the scalloped edge tutorial. Although I made the bra as part of lingerie, this can easily be made as a swim bra. With Lycra/Microfiber and all the suitable fabrics for swimwear. And… no lace, of course.

The technique to sew the cups is different from the one described in the pattern construction guide booklet. This tutorial will walk you step by step on how to cleanly sew them. The tutorial only covers the subject of sewing the cups.

You can use this technique for other patterns too. It is a bit fiddly but the result is outstanding. For larger sizes it’s best you line the cups with nonstretch fabric.

  • Changing the pattern on Afi Exquisite - Scalloped edge cups
  • Sewing curved edges on Afi Exquisite - Scalloped edge cups
  • First petal seam on Afi Exquisite - Scalloped edge cups
  • Joining the petals of the Afi Exquisite - Scalloped edge cups
  • Sewing slings on Afi Exquisite - Scalloped edge cups
  • Adding lace to Afi Exquisite - Scalloped edge cups

I took so many pictures while sewing, to make sure you catch all the tips. And because of that, I decided to put them together in a download resource. Which is FREE! To keep this post short I only dropped a few pictures letting you discover the full tutorial on your own.

Download the scalloped edge tutorial

Upon download, you will receive one PDF file. Download, open, print it from a computer or a laptop. And enjoy!

Summer season is ending, but costumes season is getting close. So, which will it be for you: shells or flower petals?

The Butterfly Add On – Now available!

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The Butterfly is a pattern Add On for the Afi Exquisite bra. If you wonder what it is and what you can do with it, let me briefly answer 3 short questions. Wedding set? yes! Special date? Yes! Swimsuit, bikini? YES, YES, YES!

The Butterfly Add On for the Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern

Today I am launching something … something UNIQUE. You may have seen some flavors or resemblant ideas over the internet or lingerie stores. But please know, this particular one is an authentic creation of my twisted imagination. Sharing it with you is like uncovering a part of myself. And yet, it comes with immense joy and a feeling of accomplishment.

Most of the time, what we make is from better supplies, and way beautiful than what’s in stores. But wouldn’t you want on top of that to make something truly ORIGINAL? Something to put you ahead of any fashion trend?

The Butterfly Add On is available on Etsy as a digital product

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A story of butterflies

and a garden of flowers

This idea came to me a very, but very long time ago. Many years ago. Though, without a base bra, the idea was silently waiting. When I finally started working on it, even more ideas flooded my brain. Hence, the Butterfly comes with 3 unique styles and not just one. Initially, it was a butterfly who’s spread its wings to hug the chest. Then it decided to cover your delicate secrete flower buds. To finally settle down on the most beautiful blooming rose.

Styles

In this style, the butterfly is made from a stretch mesh. This makes the cups underneath the butterfly visible. Add this unique twist to your lingerie wardrobe with this style

This is the sexiest style. There are no cup pieces, only the slings. Wear this style underneath your special occasion outfit and have no worries! The elastic edges on the butterfly make this bra wearable and supportive.

Be the ONE true queen on the beach or at a pool party. But be aware, many eyes will fall onto the most beautiful blooming flower. This is the most original and complicated style to sew. Thin foam is used for the cups. Lycra covers the entire bra

Instructions & Information

As with all of my commercial patterns, this comes with very, very detailed instructions. For each style.  This Add On only works for our Afi Exquisite bra pattern. For the moment the Butterfly supplement is available for Package 1 of sizes.

It’s a big step and tremendous work to see this idea materialize. I hope you will like it and give this a try.

The Butterfly Add On is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Afi Exquisite for Small Business – Now available!

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Hello everyone! Today I want to let you know that you can purchase Package 1 of the Afi Exquisite bra pattern under the license for Small Business usage. It’s a separate listing. And it is a different price. Let me walk you through a few details and also address some possible quirks.

Afi Exquisite Bra for Small Business

First of all, what is this Small Business license package?

The patterns I have released so far were for personal use. There are some of you who want to custom make bras for clients and use my patterns. Some of you want to open (or already have) a small boutique selling small collections of lingerie and would like to use my patterns. The personal usage prohibits custom makes for clients or small collections.
With the Small Business package, you will be able to do that.

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern for Small Business is available on Etsy as a digital product

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What does the Small Business package allow?

I have written a dedicated page on the usage terms in a rather human-readable form. Take your time and read it here: Terms of Use for our Patterns. It is my strongest advice if there is something you do not understand, or have a usage not listed in the terms of use, contact me before you purchase the package! Let me help you clarify everything you have doubts about.

Why?

Some of you know how to sew but don’t have (yet) the skills to draft their own pattern. For some sourcing, a pattern drafter might be expensive. Among simple people are hidden talents or dreams that never surface and reach the world. I want to help people open/sustain their own lingerie business, ideas, and dreams.

Is the content of this package any different than the personal usage?

Guys, no. I did not think for the allowed usage someone would use a plotter or something like that. But I’d love to know your suggestions.

What packages and patterns are available as Small Business?

Package 1. But let me know if you are interested in other packages. Or the Afi Chic.

Why would I buy a Small Business package?

Personal usage is different from commercial usage. I hope you see the difference: you make money with the help of my work. Drafting and releasing a pattern requires so much time, effort, and money. When you buy the ready pattern you pay a only small amount for that time, effort and knowledge. Which you’d otherwise have to spend yourself (or hire someone and … pay).  Having the personal package and using it in/for commercial purposes is called stealing. Stealing intellectual property. I know this will raise many talks (and has over the years). I won’t go into details but will only say this: think of the scenario where you are the one that’s designing, drafting, and selling patterns.

Thank you to those who understand intellectual property and digital products, and fair play according to the terms of use!

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern for Small Business is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Package 3 and 4 for the Afi Exquisite Bra – Now available!

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Two more packages for the Afi Exquisite bra pattern are now up in my Etsy shop. These include sizes for larger bands. Be sure to read my notes for these packages. Don’t forget to tag #afiexquisite or #afiexquisitebra. I would love to see all your makes!

Afi Exquisite Package 3 and 4

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern Package 3 is available on Etsy as a digital product

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The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern Package 4 is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Sizes

Package 3

This package is for the core cup sizes with larger bands. We call it Package 3 Sizes. And the included sizes with it are:

  • EU 85-110 A-E
  • UK 38-48 A-DD
  • US 38-48 A-E
Afi Exquisite Package 3

The sizes for Package 3 and 4 for the Afi Exquisite Bra work with our Bra Size Calculator which calculates your size based on the measurements. See the calculators page for more info. Always use the calculator to determine your size for our patterns! Although our sizes should match most of the RTW sizing, do not rely on your good known RTW (Ready To Wear size) from lingerie stores or other patterns. Measure yourself, fill in the calculator form and know your size for OUR patterns.

Afi Exquisite Package 4

Package 4

This package is for the larger cups and larger bands. We call it Package 4 Sizes. And the included sizes with it are:

  • EU 85-110 E-I
  • UK 38-48 DD-G
  • US 38-48 E-I

Recommendations

The larger the cups or the bands, the more things change when designing a pattern. These changes are necessary because requirements for larger sizes also change. Please review the changes in my notes in the release of Package 2. Everything applies to Package 3 and 4 for the Afi Exquisite too. Wider elastics, cups covering a bit more, etc. The one note I want to emphasize is, I strongly advise especially for Package 4 sizes folks, they line their cups.

I hope you will enjoy my pattern. These are the last sizes I am releasing for Afi Exquisite. I am sorry if yours is not covered by my pattern. Summing all 4 packages, the pattern offers 99 (nice round number, what can I say) different sizes.
Now I can finally take a break and do something like reading or actually sewing something for myself, a pajama maybe.

A big shout out to my testers from these packages. My gratitude and appreciation go to you. These packages would not have been released if it weren’t for your contribution!

Thank you!

Package 2 sizes for the Afi Exquisite Pattern – Now available!

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Starting today you can find in my Etsy shop a separate listing for package 2 of sizes for the Afi Exquisite bra pattern. It is now available having the same bands as in package 1, but 4 new cups. Please take your time to read the full article to know the changes and possible issues.

Package 2 for Afi Exquisite

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern Package 2 is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Sizes

This release is for the larger cup sizes for the core bands. We call it Package 2 Sizes. And the included sizes with it are:

  • EU 60-85 E-I
  • UK 28-38 DD-G
  • US 28-38 E-I

These sizes work with our Bra Size Calculator which calculates your size based on the measurements. See the calculators page for more info. Always use the calculator to determine your size for our patterns! Although our sizes should match most of the RTW sizing, do not rely on your good known RTW (Ready To Wear size) from lingerie stores or other patterns. Measure yourself, fill in the calculator form, and know your size for OUR patterns.

Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern - Package 2

What’s different

and important

Please know, that what works for the smaller cups, may not work for larger cups. There are some things that had to be changed for larger cups. These changes directly affect the design and as a result, it may not look 100% as for the smaller cups. Below are a few things that are changed for the larger cup sizes.

  • Strap position – The straps in the cups moved a bit towards the center front. Not much, but they did. Yes, it’s true that most support comes from the band. But the straps influence the direction of the cups. This change was necessary. What the heck, some of you might even say I should have moved them even more!
  • Neckline height – With bigger breasts, the cups have to cover more. Plus, due to the variety of aureole’s positions (some have them high), the neckline is slightly higher. Again, I am thinking some of you might say the aureola is visible still. As an easy fix, you could use a wider lace and let the lace go beyond the edge of the neckline.
  • Neckline shape – If you’re shallow on the top part of the breasts, you might find the neckline too loose. You could either add (behind the lace) or finish the neckline with good plush elastic. Or you can adjust that center seam.
  • Other – Minor things are changed too. For instance required notions, like elastics and the bra closure.

Recommendations

There are so many body and breast shapes and a pattern simply can’t help every single one. This is why I always, but always recommend, when you try a new pattern, first sew a test cup from plain cotton. Apply the cup onto your breast (or if you have a fitting band). See if it is cut too deep for you. Or if it might be too loose. A test cup can’t tell you about the support, but it helps you tremendously in identifying visible issues.

Fit notes

  • If you have narrow or sloped shoulders, this design might prove problematic because of the still wide position of the straps. Be cautious! And I apologize for upfront if this is not for you.
  • Larger cups need better support. Although the instructions do not cover this step, I strongly advocate that the cups be fully lined. One of the fabrics (whether it’s the main fabric, or the lining) should be from a very stable fabric. Making this only from stretch fabric will NOT work.
  • If you expect this bra to be a wow-pushup, please know in advance it’s not that kind of bra. Pushup bras have the bottom part of the cup very flatten, to … you know, push the breasts up. The Afi Exquisite is designed with some room in the lower part. This offers two things: fuller on bottom ladies to wear it and when wearing the bra, to feel comfortable.

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern Package 2 is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Apart from all those notes, I would like to express my gratitude to all of the people who bought my patterns. There are some ladies who left reviews for my Afi Chic and this new pattern. I was so surprised, I admit. Thank you from the bottom of my heart! I also want to thank those who share(d) the pattern news and commented on social media/blogs.

Thank you for your support!

Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern – Now available!

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Well, I made a new bra pattern this time aiming at a balconette design with a flare of a pushup. I wanted a style for those special occasions to complement the beautiful gown you’re dressed in. A bra to boost your feeling that you’re exquisite underneath too. This is why the new pattern is called the Afi Exquisite bra.

Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern

I’ve been dreaming for a long time to have my own design for a delicate bra. And I finally made one. With a beautiful round cup shape and with a deep cut neckline just enough to reveal sensual curves. To support the cups, I made the band a full one having the leotard back. This bra uses underwires.

Some of you may be concerned with the wide position of the straps. And yes, I want to note this specifically. If you have narrow or sloped shoulders, this design might prove problematic. Be cautious! And I apologize for upfront if this is not for you.

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern Package 1 is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Sizes

This release is for the main sizes. We call it Package 1 Sizes. And the included sizes with it are:

  • EU 60-85 A-E
  • UK 28-38 A-DD
  • US 28-38 A-E

These sizes work with our Bra Size Calculator which calculates your size based on the measurements. See the calculators page for more info. Always use the calculator to determine your size for our patterns! Although our sizes should match most of the RTW sizing, do not rely on your good known RTW (Ready To Wear size) from lingerie stores or other patterns. Measure yourself, fill in the calculator form, and know your size for OUR patterns.

Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern cover

Styles

The Afi Exquisite bra pattern includes 1 style only. It is called the main style. It is relatively straightforward to put together. But it leaves room for your imagination to play as much as it can whether you use satin with lace, or you cover the cups with lace entirely. Click or tap thumbnail pictures to see them on a larger scale.

  • Afi Exquisite Bra - Front view
  • Afi Exquisite Bra - Back view
  • Afi Exquisite Bra - Profile back view
  • Afi Exquisite Bra - Profile front view

The shorter pieces of the cups are not lined, while the sling is. Although pictured is a bra with non-stretch lace trim, I strongly advise you to choose a stretchy one, especially if you’re shallower on top. The cup fabric is intended for non-stretch. And you know what? The bra in the pictures is actually made from woven satin fabric, not a knitted one. So you know, with care, you can try it in woven fabric too.

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern Package 1 is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Instructions

Again, I spared no detail. The instructions are fully illustrated in a lot of small and easy steps. It might seem overwhelming when you open the Construction Guide. Once you start sewing you’ll see how much the details help you sew your own bra.
If you’re a beginner at lingerie sewing, know that my thoughts went to you when I sat days drafting all of those.

  • Afi Exquisite Bra - Pattern covers
  • Afi Exquisite Bra - Pattern cover and a bra
  • Afi Exquisite Bra - Pattern instructions

About

Afi Exquisite Bra
  • The styles: yes, I know everyone wants, several styles in one pattern. But drafting the instructions for each style feels like a heroic act of a martyr :)) I certainly would get bored and would have never finished them. My decision was to have one style, and think about some tutorials or something for variations.
  • The bra I made: please know this bra took two days to make. Of course, it has to be perfect. And it is! I love it.
  • The size of the pictured bra: it is an EU 70C, UK 32C, US 32C.
  • Testing: yes the bra was tested; narrow shoulders proved problematic; larger sizes need the cups to be lined and of very stable fabric.
  • The next size packages: I want to release them too, but it takes time.

The Afi Exquisite Bra Pattern Package 1 is available on Etsy as a digital product

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Afi Chic Bra – Underwire length adjustment

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We continue with the easy pattern adjustment series. Shortening the wire curve at the arm area is one of the most asked alterations. The steps shown adjust the Afi Chic pattern, but they can be easily applied to any other bra pattern. Let’s get started.

Afi Chic Bra - Underwire length adjustment

When do we need this change?
Answer: when the wire that fits your body, is a bit shorter at the underarm than the pattern uses AND the design of the pattern allows a small alteration in this area.

And how do I know that?
Answer: it was a long answer, and the whole rationale is explained in my previous article about bra underwires and bra patterns.

When you’ve determined you can and need to change the pattern get the pattern pieces out and follow the steps bellow.

First steps

  1. Measure the difference. Do not forget to account for the wire play. Note the value
Measure the wire on the cradle
  1. Get the A1 and B2 pieces because those are the ones we need to adjust: the outer cup and cradle. Remove the seam allowances.
Remove seam allowances

Shortening the wire curve at the arm area

Step by step

Click or tap images to zoom in

  1. My pattern pieces are ready to be adjusted
  2. Apply the value from step 1 on both pieces, measuring from the edge down along the curve. Mark the pieces
  3. Now redraft the new edges of each piece. A line on the cradle. A curve on the cup
  4. That’s the amount we need to chop off
  5. These are the adjusted pieces
  1. We are not done. We need to put back the seam allowances
  2. When adding seam allowances, pay attention to the amount. Pink areas are where the allowance must match the band elastic width. The green areas are joining pieces allowance.
  3. Put back the marks on the pieces. And there you have it, the pattern is now adjusted to match your shorter underwire

In an underwire bra, most of the fit problems have a direct impact on the underwire.

  • If the wire is too small, the band slides down and the metal sits very uncomfortably on our tummy.
  • If the cup volume is too small, the underwire digs in our breast tissue, ouch, painful.
  • If the band’s direction is wrong, the underwire position is rearranged, and again the metal feels uncomfortable.

In order to sort things out, we have to have the underwire and underwire curve right FIRST! And this article is here to help you with that.

Bra underwires and bra patterns, and their relationship

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Before we continue with the Afi Chic pattern adjustments series I want to talk about bra underwires and bra patterns. Add your body to the equation and you’re looking at a more complicated problem. A problem we need to understand and solve.

Bra pattern and underwire

The thing with underwires and patterns is that patterns are drafted for specific underwires. And this is valid in two aspects.

One, a specific (or a few) underwire shape(s) is used (which can be day wear, balconette, plunge).

Two, the pattern is designed with wires having defined a specific length, or an acceptable wire length interval.

Good patterns mention both of those two things in their description/instructions. Although the second may come in two forms: the pattern provides a chart with used underwires and you can compare your wire against the chart, or in the Afi Chic case, tables per sizes are provided, and you can see the maximum underwire length for your size.

That was about patterns.

But the golden rule of a good fitting bra is: use the underwire that fits YOUR BODY.

What this means, the wire that fits you may not satisfy the two criteria we discussed just a second ago. Your wire may be shorter or longer than the pattern expects you to use. We need to compare your favorite underwire with the specs the pattern calls for. If we’re lucky, our wire matches the pattern underwire criteria. If not, we may still be able to use the pattern, but this is where wire curve length adjustment may come in.

Inspecting the underwire and the pattern

The first thing when inspecting a bra pattern is to see what underwire shape it is designed for. If the pattern uses long underwires but you use plunge wires, that’s a problem pattern adjustment may not be able to fix. Plunge wires are very short in the front. If you’d adjust the pattern to fit such a wire, you can in fact distort the pattern up to a point it may not offer support. Or you can end up with a boob shifting out of the cup.

On the other hand, if the pattern calls for long front underwires, but you have regular day wear, this may work with adjusting the pattern. And that is because the difference between the two shapes is not so big.

But then again, if the pattern uses long underwires because it’s a strapless one, altering it for regular underwires is not a good thing. The band won’t hold, the bra may slide off.

To summarize: the shape matters, and this is your first check of the pattern. If the underwire that fits your body is not a good candidate for the pattern, I guess you can move on to another pattern.

Bra pattern pieces and underwire

Passing the first test gets us to the second one. The length comparison. But why? Haha, haven’t you heard enough the phrase: bra sizing is different from vendor to vendor? Underwires fall in this “rule” too, unfortunately.
I could consider a 199 mm length underwire as a regular wire for an EU 75B (UK 34B / US 43B) size, while, other vendors consider the regular underwire 210 mm. That 11 mm difference in length matters for a pattern! Not using the correct length, again, means the pattern may ill fit. Yes, that 11 mm make a difference 🙂

As an example, here’s a picture with a shorter wire in the Afi Chic bra. You can see the distortion and the wrinkles. This is a relatively small size. But when this happens in larger sizes, well, you can imagine for yourself. The band is distorted, the fit of the tissue there is affected. Wearing that pulling band puts pressure on the wire, which may very soon poke the channeling.

Ill fitting bra due to short underwire

Measuring the underwire

Grab the wire that fits your body, and let’s compare it with the pattern. Trust the lengths the pattern tells you in the instructions or the charts it provides. But the best test is to compare your wire with the cradle pieces! The Afi Chic cradle has two separate pieces: B2 (outer cradle) and B3 (bridge).

Afi Chic join cradle pieces

To simulate the cradle when it’s sewn, we need to overlap the pieces taking away the seam allowances.

Tape the pieces together and get ready for wire inspection.

Afi Chic joined cradle pieces

The tricky thing when measuring the wire is you have to take into account the wire spring. If the underwire is rigid, thus it does not spring, you measure the wire as it is. But if the underwire allows some flexibility, then, you have to hold both ends and slightly spring the wire to match the wireline on the pattern.

The hardest thing though is to find the balance point of your underwire. What’s that? The balance point is the bottom point of the underwire on the curvature. If the balance point is not determined correctly, you can end up with an abnormally tilted cup. And this would result in an odd bra shape, which evidently means the bra won’t fit. But the talk about the balance point is longer and it would not fit in this article. Let’s leave the juicy details for another article.

For now remember the simple rule: the bottom bowl of the underwire has to be arranged to the bottom bowl of the wire curvature on the cradle. What’s it saying, is:

When you’re fitting an underwire to a (any) pattern cradle, the starting point is NONE of the ends of the wire curves. It’s the bottom bowl.

Underwire bottom bowl

Yes, it’s tricky to measure. It’s rather a trial error operation. In time, with practice, the measuring gets easier and intuitive. But back to our pattern and your wire. Here are two wires I’m measuring for our quest.

Bra underwire length alright

You can see the underwire ends are almost close enough to the underwire ends of the cradle. There is a 2-7 mm difference on each end. This is OK. That’s called wire play. It’s done on purpose. When you wear the bra, with the body movement, it allows the wire to slightly adjust to that movement. It also a cool thing, when washing your bra. Some fabrics shrink, yes, a few millimeters. I found that it’s the underwire casing that usually shrinks after the washing.

Bra underwire too short

Here you can see I have a shorter underwire. The difference is rather large. On the bridge, I have that wire play difference. But in the underarm region, it’s a big gap. That is what we need to adjust on the pattern – to remove it.
Disclaimer: this wire may be over tilted, remember the bowl? I may have rotated the wire too much to the front. But I’ve chosen it here, to picture a large gap. Do not do like I did! Match the bowl. That may result in big gaps at the underarm end, and at the bridge. And it’s OK. Both ends would have to be adjusted.

Remember: measuring has to be done on the wireline of the pattern, not the seam allowance!

Armed with the knowledge that our wire is shorter or longer at the underarm area, we now know, the pattern has to be adjusted. In the next article, we will look at this particular adjustment. Other future posts may cover shortening in the front, or the opposite, adding length. But, one article at a time.

Conclusion

Adjusting the pattern is not complicated (you will see, chopping here and there). What’s complicated is understanding what you need to adjust and when.

The underwire curve is the most sensible part when it comes to altering it. Because there are curves, not lines. And because you have to pay attention to a zillion things: the metal wire, the pattern wire curve, your breast shape, and breast root.

But it’s also one of the most (if not THE most) important thing when it comes to bra fitting. You have to have it right.
I hope this article sheds some light on fitting an underwire. See you all next time. Cheers and have a wonderful week ahead!

Afi Chic Cup – Adjusting the strap position and the armhole

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When I have designed the Afi Chic, one condition was to accommodate a deep armhole and the strap position more toward the center front. But, there are so many bodies and so many particularities, this is why there’s always going to be someone that has to adjust a pinch here and a seam there. I thought I can guide you to adjust the pattern and make it the best it can be for YOU. And I said, let’s start easy and progress in time. The easiest alteration I want to address is adjusting the strap position. Going hand in hand is the armhole adjustment for the time when the cup cuts into your arm.

Afi Chic - Cup strap position

If I come to think of the alterations, I believe the easiest of all possible adjustments is to alter the bridge width, but let’s address that some other time. Today we concentrate on the cup.

First steps

So, you’ve made a bra. You put it on. Maybe there are visible problems. You note them. Then you wear the bra. This time you discover the invisible problems. You note them too. This list is what you need to change.

Having identified the problems, you have to identify what the solutions are. Maybe choose different fabrics, or change the notions, for instance, use a wider picot elastic. Or, maybe you need to adjust the pattern. Turning to the adjustments, you select the pieces you need to alter.

For the strap position and the armhole on the cup, the adjustments will be carried on the A1 piece – that is the outer cup. Having done it on the main cup piece, you can later do the same for the C1 which is the foam piece.

The key thing to remember is before altering any piece, remove the seam allowances!

Afi Chic - Preparing cup piece

I did try my best to make some sketches to help you identify the problems. Inspect the models carefully and see if that applies to you.

Moving the strap more to the center

This lovely lady is modeling a bra where the strap position sits in the armpit. First, it’s not comfortable when you’re moving your arms to the front. And a consequence of the strap placement is that the strap may tend to slide off. Please notice, the armhole of the cup is deep and curve enough. It’s just the strap you want to move more to the center.

Afi Chic - Moving the strap on the cup

So this was the step where you identify the problem. Next is to select the A1 cup piece and remove the seam allowance. Then, we proceed onto the drawing, cutting, and putting back the seam allowances. Click or tap images to zoom in

  1. Measure how much to move the strap in.
  2. Apply the measured value to the A1 piece starting from the arm along the neckline.
  3. Following as much as possible the original curve, redraw the curve slightly moving it away and ending it in the point you measured in the previous step.
  4. Cut the excess along your curve.
  5. This is the adjusted piece.
  6. We need to add back the seam allowances around the piece. If you’re altering the foam piece C1, you’ll need to add seam allowances only on the wireline.
  1. Pay attention to the width of the seam allowances. They are NOT the same across all the edges! The armhole – the pink one – is where you sew the elastic. This means the seam allowance has to have the width of the elastic. The green allowance is where you join this piece with other pieces. I call it joining pieces seam allowance. This is standard in the Afi Chic bra and has a value of 8 mm which most of the time fits the sewing machine needle position.
  2. Put back the marks on the upper side. The seam allowance edge is for Style 1. The dashed line (no seam allowance on the neckline) is for Style 2 and 3.

And this was all for moving the strap on the cup.

Moving the strap more to the center and cutting deeper the armhole

This lady is modeling a bra where the strap is also in the armpit, but to her sorrow, the armhole is not cut deep enough. It is like the cup is trying to run more to the side but it’s stopped by the arm. And yes it’s uncomfortable. But it is also when you bring your arms to the front, the arms push the cup fabric and the cup opens at the neckline. Some might be tempted to take a pick of what’s in the cup 

Afi Chic - Cup cuts in the arm

To fix this, we will move the strap but we will cut the cup deeper. Get the A1 piece out, remove the seam allowance, and follow the steps. Hover over the images to see the next slide buttons if you’re reading this on your computer or a laptop. Swipe the image left or right to advance to the next image.

  1. Measure how much to move the strap in and have an idea of how much to cut the armhole.
  2. Apply the measured value to the A1 piece starting from the arm along the neckline.
  3. Draw a curve moving away from the original one from the start point to the endpoint. You do NOT follow the original curve.
  4. Cut the excess along your curve.
  5. This is the adjusted piece.
  6. We need to add back the seam allowances around the piece. If you’re altering the foam piece C1, you’ll need to add seam allowances only on the wireline.
  1. Pay attention to the width of the seam allowances. They are NOT the same across all the edges! The armhole – the pink one – is where you sew the elastic. This means the seam allowance has to have the width of the elastic. The green allowance is where you join this piece with others. I call it joining pieces seam allowance. This is standard in the Afi Chic bra and has a value of 8 mm which most of the time fits the sewing machine needle position.
  2. Put back the marks on the upper side. The seam allowance edge is for Style 1. The dashed line (no seam allowance on the neckline) is for Style 2 and 3.

And this was all for this adjustment. Now you may ask me, hey Ana, but the alterations look kind of the same. Well, yes, sure you draft a new curve for both adjustments. It is how you draft them that’s different. Because they fix two problems that may or may not be connected. Let’s have a look at them side by side

Comparison of the above adjustments

Afi Chic - Cup adjustments comparison

The first pair of ladies like the armhole of the cup, they just want the strap to move more to the center.
The second pair, besides the strap is displeased with the armhole. Her cup bothers whenever she moves her arms. And here’s the side by side difference on the adjustments for each problem.

Afi Chic - Cup piece adjustments comparison

I hope you can see how the first adjustment only changes the end where the strap is attaching. Half of the curve is almost the same as the original one.

The second adjustment redrafts the curve entirely and shaves off pretty much from the cup. This is where we eliminate the excess that’s bothering in the armhole.

Most of the time, people need to make the second adjustment. But on some occasions, you only want to move the strap in. Being able to distinguish between the subtle difference is one step closer to having a better bra.

If you find this article helpful I might think of writing more. Would you like to read more about fitting and adjusting? Asking you this, because, I admit, it’s a nightmare to draft and prepare the pictures.

Oh, and one little funny thing. If you look from a distance at the last picture, do those two circles resemble … two nipples? Giggle, giggle.