When do we need this change?
Answer: when the wire that fits your body, is a bit shorter at the underarm than the pattern uses AND the design of the pattern allows a small alteration in this area.
And how do I know that?
Answer: it was a long answer, and the whole rationale is explained in my previous article about bra underwires and bra patterns.
When you’ve determined you can and need to change the pattern get the pattern pieces out and follow the steps bellow.
Shortening the wire curve at the arm area
Step by step
Click or tap images to zoom in
- My pattern pieces are ready to be adjusted
- Apply the value from step 1 on both pieces, measuring from the edge down along the curve. Mark the pieces
- Now redraft the new edges of each piece. A line on the cradle. A curve on the cup
- That’s the amount we need to chop off
- These are the adjusted pieces
- We are not done. We need to put back the seam allowances
- When adding seam allowances, pay attention to the amount. Pink areas are where the allowance must match the band elastic width. The green areas are joining pieces allowance.
- Put back the marks on the pieces. And there you have it, the pattern is now adjusted to match your shorter underwire